Not known for its stellar style performance and good behaviour in bad, blowy weather, curly hair is often a fuzzy force to be reckoned with. But there is a way to ensure your less-than-straight styles behave. The secret is in the cut, care and even how you shower!
Caring for curly hair can seem a difficult task, with the threat of frizz and unruly behaviour. Fear not. Leading stylist and curly hair king Hermiz Daniel, of Joey Scandizzo Salon, shows us how to style and manage our curled tresses.
The 2015 awards season has kicked off with a bevy of beauties such as Keira Knightley, Claire Danes, Diane Kruger, Angelina Jolie and Rosario Dawson letting their long, loose, curved and curled tendrils down.
Hermiz Daniel notes that the hottest hairdo’s for the season are based around a prism of curls and kinks.
“I’m loving the ‘Gladiator Hair-Up’” he enthuses, whereby waves and curls are ever-so-loosely twisted and stretched – either with a middle-part or not - back into the upper-nape of the neck and pinned in a messy, texture happy bun.
But “whatever style you choose, put down the straightening tools and take full advantage of your natural curl,” enthuses Hermiz. "If curls are proving a little tricky and tight, stretch them out a bit and plait them overnight. In the morning they will be kinkier and not as wound-up. Perfect to pin and tuck! Haphazard and individual hair is far hotter than cookie-cutter straight and predictable,” Hermiz assures.
“It’s important to know that every hairdresser is different in their approach to cutting curly hair so you need to find someone who understands curly hair and someone you trust,” explains Hermiz. Here are some tips to consider:
- Curly hair requires a very different technique to a straight or wavy hair cut, cautions Hermiz. “Curly hair is all about the outer shape of the hair as it shows the cut and layering more obviously than straight hair. Therefore, the cut needs to blend through the lengths, rather than appearing choppy,” he explains. “Curly hair cuts need to be really precise, so its essential you choose a stylist that specialises in curly hair."
- If your hair is naturally wavy, do not blow-dry it straight before you go in for a cut. All this will do is ensure your hair is cut to a straight style which is great when you’re in the salon, but an epic fail when you are flailing around at home trying to style it without the help of a salon professional! “Always have your hair cut in its natural form to ensure it’s the right cut for you and your lifestyle,” Hermiz advises.
- Request your hair is cut wet so that the texture and ‘spring’ of curls is more evident as the cut proceeds. “Your stylist can then dry off the hair and do any touch-ups once it is dry and the curl and wave takes on its natural texture,” says Hermiz.
“To calm the curl, stick to cream textures and avoid serums,” notes Hermiz. “Curly hair tends to be naturally frizzy so you need a creamy covering product to help tame the hair and weigh it down a bit.” Apply with a light hand as too much product can appear sticky and tacky. Always warm a small amount in the palms of the hand and work through the hair from the mid-section, downwards. Then once done, you can tame any flyaways with the residue in your hands.
From Shower to Style
- Imagine your hair strand as a pineapple. All those open, rough edges are what a curly strand looks like under the microscope. The heat, humidity and environmental aggressors get into the open surface more easily than with straight hair - which is more like a smooth watermelon – causing it to open up more and frizz. "So, to ensure you close the shaft as much as possible when you’re in the shower, rinse with cold water towards the end to close and smooth the cuticle," says Hermiz.
- Don’t rub the shampoo in too much, just gently smooth it through and only rinse out 75 per cent of conditioner at the ends (but thoroughly at the roots to reduce build-up). Leaving some conditioner in the ends of hair will help to seal the ends and reduce frizz.
- When you get out of the shower, don’t rub hair dry with a towel, just squeeze any excess water out (otherwise you will distract the curl and open that ‘pineapple’ again!)
- If you would like to comb the hair use a wide-toothed comb, or better yet, finger comb it with your head tipped upside-down to ensure natural movement is encouraged.
- Add in a cream based product by squeezing it into the hair and scrunching it through.
- Leave to dry naturally, or if you would like to dry with a hairdryer use a diffuser and put the hairdryer on low speed with high head to reduce damage and also the opening of the hair shaft.