Want gorgeously groomed eyebrows that frame your face and bring out your best features?
Here are our top tips and tricks from beauty guru, Svetlana Burckhardt, Director of EyebrowExperts in Sydney and author of new book, Confessions of a Brazilian Waxing Queen, to help you create beautiful brows!
1. How do you get the perfect brows?
A professional brow aesthetician can perfect your eyebrows by enhancing your natural shape and working to achieve your style objectives. In my salon, there is no ‘one size fits all’ approach to brow shapes; whether you’re trying to grow brows back in or create a finer, more contoured shape, I tailor to the individual.
I strongly recommend selecting a specialist brow salon where a therapist has had intensive brow training; this way you can be confident your aesthetician is capable and has a true passion for brows!
I use unique measuring techniques to determine the ideal shape for each client - I don’t believe in the use of stencils. Sometimes customers will come in requesting celebrity eyebrow trends (eg. wider brows and on-trend higher arches), but I will not create an unnatural shape for their face. It is so important to consider the client’s facial features and bone structure. Eyebrows frame your face and have the ability to take years off your appearance so the correct shape, width and colour are essential components to achieving brow perfection.
An initial shape by a professional is essential and you can maintain this between visits with the correct use of tweezing. But don’t be over-zealous!
2. Can you talk us through the step-by-step process?
In the salon -
I don’t wish to reveal all my secrets but...
1. I first trim the brows. Trimming the hair before tweezing will reveal the brow shape and remove the weight and bulk so it is easier to create an ideal shape.
2. Using a pencil, I perform a series of measurements to determine where the highest point of the arch should be, where the brow should start and finish.
3. I mark the spots mapped out above with a brow pencil, then begin tweezing or waxing accordingly. I remove no more than two rows of hair to maintain a natural effect. I sometimes also need to remove just a few hairs from the top of the outer edges to create a subtle downward slope.
4. For close-set eyes, I would tweeze a few more hairs at the beginning of the brow as it helps to create more space and makes eyes appear wider.
5. For wide set eyes, I would leave slightly more hair at the beginning of the brow to create the illusion of less space between the eyes.
3. Waxing v plucking, benefits, who good for, what look does each give?
Both techniques achieve similar results, but I’ve found that a combination of waxing, plucking and trimming of the brows provides the ideal shape. Waxing is ideal as it's quick, removes a section of hair at once, and gets the initial 'sting' over with quickly.
However, it will not grab the ultra fine, short re-growth hair. Plucking is necessary for this and is required for the ultimate precision, whilst trimming gives a polished appearance and keeps brows looking full and healthy. I encourage clients to maintain their eyebrows between treatments by carefully plucking outside the shape I’ve created – over plucking can be disastrous and hair can take a long time to grow back. I would always leave waxing to the experts.
On another note, threading is becoming quite a popular technique. I have chosen not to offer this technique, as it is very easy to remove too much hair in one movement with this method, and the hair grows back very slowly. Currently I have clients whose brows are not growing back due to threading treatments, and this prevents me from updating or enhancing their shape to their liking.
4. Benefits of going to a salon vs. DIY
Obviously, the only benefit of DIY is the cost saving. I am happy for clients to maintain with some plucking at home but I would strongly suggest they have their initial shape designed by a professional. They can then cut back on costs by visiting every second month, teamed with some at-home maintenance.
A regular beauty therapist who has not undertaken specific brow training may perform an ordinary eyebrow wax. The therapist may take a 'one size fits all' approach to eyebrow shaping.
A great eyebrow wax and shape will occur when the therapist has the correct training, experience and passion for brows and takes into consideration the individual face shape of the women she is waxing. Like a good hairdresser, she will be able to explain why a particular style, eg. a high Megan Fox arch, will not suit the client, and suggest an alternate option. They will then use a combination of waxing and tweezing and at all times ensure the client is comfortable, while maintaining an immaculate work area.
Ask friends for recommendations, trust a professional and make regular appointments to maintain your perfect shape.
5. What are the essential brow tools you should have at home.
To create the perfect eyebrows you will need:
1.A magnifying mirror, preferably with a light
2.A good quality set of tweezers (preferably slanted)
3.Eyebrow scissors for trimming
4.Eyebrow brush and eyelash comb to tame unruly hairs
5.An eyebrow pencil
You might like to take a panadol before your brow wax to minimise the sting. Avoid coffee before your appointment as it is a stimulant and will make the waxing more uncomfortable.
If tweezing at home, do so after a shower when the pores are open and the hairs will slide out easily.
Confessions of a Brazilian Waxing Queen by Svetlana Burckhardt, $29.99 is available online HERE