A simple, slimline and practical unit, this TV console is a classic both inside and out. Several drawers and compartments efficiently house your DVDs and equipment, while the console surface provides the perfect base for your (flatscreen) television.
By the way: A matching TV wall unit with incorporated DVD shelves is described in another set of assembly instructions.
The console consists of two sections that are fastened together by screws. It includes two types of compartment: open compartments with a base for storing equipment, and compartments without a base that are designed to accommodate a drawer.
You decide on the number and type of compartments you want to install. Our list of materials specifies the parts required for one open compartment (for equipment) and one drawer.
We recommend using wooden dowels for the joints. However, if you opt for MDF and intend to paint the console, you can also fasten the sections together with screws.
The following assembly instructions are for 20-mm-thick beech glued laminated timber board. You must adapt the list of materials accordingly if you opt for other materials or thicknesses.
Ask your DIY store or carpenter to cut the required boards to size.
1. Drill dowel holes in the carcass
First, position the side panels and the top panel in the way you want to assemble them. Use a pencil to mark the positions on the rear edges of the sections so that you always know what goes where at a later stage of assembly.
In the case of corner or T-joints, we strongly recommend using a drill template and marking points, or dowel templates as they are known. Measurements and markings alone will not be sufficient to position dowel holes precisely enough so that they lie exactly flush with each other.
Using a drill and 8-mm wood drill bit, drill three dowel holes in the facing edge of each of the side panels, and copy their positions with dowel templates to the bottom of the top panel.
A drill template is a device that is attached to the workpiece by means of a screwing mechanism. This device guides the drill bit vertically through a metal collar directly into the wood. If you are not using a drill template, at least make sure that you always drill the holes first in the front side. This is where the drill is more likely to slip, and not penetrate the wood at an absolute right angle. If you drill into the surface, you increase the likelihood of achieving a right angle because you are working against the grain.
A dowel template is a metal pin with marking point. You insert this pin into the holes on the front side so that you can transfer their positions. To do this, you press the predrilled workpiece in position so that its edges are exactly flush with the surface of its counterpart.
Use a wood drill bit to drill holes with the dowel radius into the two pieces that you want to join. The two drilling depths should amount to the dowel length plus 2 mm. For this reason, you should ideally use a drill bit with a centring tip and a depth stop: this is a steel collar that is fixed to the drill for the required drilling depth. Never drill a hole that is deeper than two thirds of the material thickness.
2. Glue together the carcass
Apply glue to the dowel holes and the glue surfaces of the side panels and then insert the wooden dowels. Once you have also dabbed some glue into the holes in the top panel, join all the pieces together. Clamp the joints using clamp clips.
Use clamp clips to press all of the glue joints carefully until the glue has dried. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions. While pressing the joints, use pieces of scrap wood as buffer blocks to distribute the pressure evenly and avoid leaving unsightly pressure marks on the workpieces. Wipe away any excess glue immediately with a damp cloth.
3. Mount the intermediate shelf base
Once the gluing process is complete, insert the intermediate shelf base between the side panels that have been predrilled as required. (In our illustration, this is the right-hand compartment of the left-hand console section.) Secure the shelf base in place using the cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 40 mm).
Tip for screwing together two pieces of wood
In the piece where you want to insert the screws first, always predrill a hole that is 0.5 to 1 mm larger than the screw diameter; the hole should be countersunk for the screw head. In the piece that you are going to drill second, predrill a hole that is always 1 mm smaller than the screw diameter.
4. Drill drawer dowel holes
First, position the side panels, front section and rear section in the way you want to assemble them. Use a pencil to mark the positions on the bottom edges of the sections so that you always know what goes where at a later stage of assembly.
Using the drill, 8-mm wood drill bit and drill template, make two dowel holes in the corresponding facing edges of the front and rear sections, and copy the positions of the holes with dowel templates to the insides of the side panels. Ensure that the upper edges of the sections are on the working surface, as the side panels are wider than the front and rear sections. This way, the side panels will conceal the facing edges of the front section, rear section and base and part of the castors.
5. Glue the drawers
Dab glue into the dowel holes and the glue surfaces of the front and rear section and then insert the wooden dowels. After you have also applied some glue to the holes in the side panels, stick the front section, rear section and side panels together. Press the sections together using clamp clips. Refer again to the note on gluing in step 2.
6. Mount the drawer base, castors and front panel
Predrill the base using the drill and 4-mm wood drill bit. Then fasten it to the front and rear section using screws (4 x 35 mm). Refer to the tip on screwing together two pieces of wood in step 3.
Position the castors on the base on the outermost edges, exactly parallel to the side panels. Now fasten them in place with the cordless screwdriver and round head screws (4 x 15 mm).
Using the drill and 4-mm wood drill bit, predrill the front section to be fastened to the front panel and countersink the holes inside to match the size of the screw heads. Now align the front panel on the front section, fix it in place with clamp clips and mount it from inside using the cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 35 mm).
The simplest place to position the knob is on the front panel, as it is only secured at a single point. Mark the centre of the front panel by drawing diagonal lines from the corners. When selecting and fitting the knob, note that with our method of assembly, the front and rear sections are 40 mm thick.
7. Fit the console sections and join them with the TV wall unit
Since our console comprises two halves, you must now join these together. For this purpose, use the drill and 4-mm wood drill bit to predrill two holes axially on the inside of one of the side panels concerned. Countersink the holes. Then fit the two console sections together with the cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 35 mm). Refer to our tip on screwing together two pieces of wood in step 3.
If you want to combine the TV console with the matching TV wall unit, you must fasten the two pieces together securely once you have cut out the openings required to pass through the cables behind the device compartment in the TV wall unit. The pieces are fastened with L-shaped brackets, often referred to as angle irons. Using the cordless screwdriver and flat head screws (3 x 17 mm), mount these brackets as high up as possible below the top panel (flush with the edges) to the four inside surfaces of the side panels.
Then arrange the console in front of the suspended TV wall unit and fit it, again using flat head screws (3 x 17 mm). Finally, all you have to do is insert the assembled drawers.
8. Sand wood surfaces
First chamfer all edges with sanding paper with a grit of 120 or 180 at a 45° angle to create a small bevel. Use your sander to sand all visible surfaces in the direction of the wood grain, first with coarse sanding paper (grit of 120, 180) and then with fine sanding paper (grit of up to 240).
Damp sponge the surfaces afterwards to wipe off the dust. Some loose wood fibres may protrude while the wood is drying. You can remove these with sanding paper with a grit of 180. The wood is now ready for surface treatment. Little tip: Make sure that the sanding paper is sharp enough to remove the wood fibres properly, not just flatten them.
9. Surface treatment with oil
First read the manufacturer's safety and handling instructions thoroughly. Make sure the room you are working in is well ventilated and not used for smoking, eating or drinking.
Generously apply the oil or wax with a fine spray system and remove any excess with a cloth. Observe the drying times specified by the manufacturer.
If you want to apply a second coat of wax, you need to sand the surface between coats using sanding paper with a grit of 240. (A second layer of oil is often applied without re-sanding the surface.) Once again, you must always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Repeat the application as described in the section above. Once the wax has dried, polish the surface with a soft brush until it gleams.
Following the wax application, spread out the wax cloth and leave it to dry properly in a well-ventilated area. If left scrunched up in a ball, the cloth may become warm and self-ignite.